Hunan Fun — Where the Mountains Float and the Tofu Bites Back

Orientation

One province, three very different trips

Hunan sits in south-central China, named for lying south (nan) of Dongting Lake. Northwest Hunan holds the quartz-pillar mountains that inspired the floating peaks of Avatar. The southwest holds Fenghuang, a Ming-dynasty river town built on stilts. And Changsha, the capital, runs on midnight barbecue, karaoke, and television studios. Most trips pick two of the three — trying to do all three in under a week is how people end up seeing everything from a bus window.

Xiāng Cài · 湘菜

Hunan cuisine doesn't ease you in

One of China's eight great culinary traditions, built on fresh and pickled chilies, garlic, and smoke rather than the numbing peppercorn of neighboring Sichuan. Heat is rated by dot, not by drama.

Chairman Mao's Braised Pork Máo Shì Hóngshāo Ròu Fatty pork belly braised in soy and rock sugar until it's dark, glossy and falling apart. A Shaoshan original, said to be Mao Zedong's favorite dish.
Steamed Fish Head with Chopped Chili Duò Jiāo Yú Tóu A whole fish head buried under fermented red and green chilies, steamed until the flesh pulls apart. The province's signature dish.
Chairman's Chicken with Dried Chilies Là Zǐ Jī Small chunks of bone-in fried chicken nearly buried in whole dried chilies. You eat around the peppers, not through them.
Stir-Fried Pork with Green Peppers Xiǎo Chǎo Ròu The everyday home-cooking dish of Hunan — thin-sliced pork, green chilies, garlic, all cooked fast and hot.
Changsha Stinky Tofu Chòu Dòufu Fermented tofu deep-fried to a black crust, served with chili oil and pickled vegetables. The smell announces the street before the stall does.
Smoked Cured Meat Xiāng Xī Là Ròu Pork smoked over tea leaves and pine, then stir-fried with leeks or dried tofu — smoky rather than fiery, and the province's other signature flavor.

Planning

Before you go

Best time

Spring or autumn

April–May and September–October bring mild temperatures and the best odds of clear mountain views. Summer is hot, humid and crowded; winter mist can hide the peaks entirely.

Getting in

Fly into Changsha

Changsha Huanghua International Airport is the main gateway. High-speed rail connects Changsha to Zhangjiajie in about 2.5 hours and to Jishou (for Fenghuang) in around 2 hours.

Pace

Don't rush the mountains

Zhangjiajie's park is enormous — plan at least two full days if you want to see Yuanjiajie, Tianzi Mountain and the Grand Canyon without a bus-window blur.

Heads up

Mild it is not

If a menu doesn't specify, assume it's spicy. "Bù là" (不辣) gets you a milder version, though the kitchen may quietly ignore the request.

Mountains
that float. Food
that fights back.

One province, three very different trips

Eight places worth the trip

Zhangjiajie National Forest Park

Tianmen Cave & the glass skywalk

The glass-bottomed bridge

Fenghuang Ancient Town

Changsha

Dongting Lake

Chenzhou & Dongjiang Lake

Shaoshan village & Mount Heng